HOLLY SPECIES

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Holly (Ilex) is such a festive plant but it would probably surprise you to know that these are a diverse group of trees and shrubs.  They range in height from a couple of feet to 30 metres high and although most are dark green, you can also find purple tints and variegated forms. With so much variation in holly varieties, you’re sure to find one to suit your need.

Holly belongs to the Aquifoliaceae family and can be deciduous or evergreen.   Holly leaves are often dark green, glossy and oval. Younger plants usually feature spiky leaves, but the leaves of older trees are much more likely to be smooth. 

Almost all holly species are dioecious, meaning that male and female flowers occur on different trees. Flowers are white with four petals. Once pollinated by insects, female flowers develop into scarlet berries, which can remain on the tree throughout winter.  One male plant is able to pollinate a few female plants. They produce drupes (not berries) that are often red, but may come in shades of white, yellow, purple or black. 

Ilex aquifolium (English Holly)
A medium-sized evergreen tree, slow-growing when young, with dark, glossy green, undulate and usually strongly spiny leaves. Small, dull white flowers in spring are followed by bright red berries, on pollinated female plants.

Ilex cornuta (chinese holly) 
This evergreen shrubs has dark green leaves with pronounced spines. They tolerate hot temperatures but sustain winter damage in cold zones. The different types of hollies in this group include ‘Burfordii,’ which is one of the most popular cultivars for hedges, and ‘O. Spring,’ a variegated type with irregular bands of yellow on the leaves. 

‘Nellie R. Stevens’
This is a cross between hybrid between English holly (Ilex aquifolium and Chinese holly(Ilex cornuta).  A parthenogenic cultivar that does not require make and female plants, and so is ideal if you only have room for one plant. 

Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) 
Generally softer in texture than Chinese hollies, Ilex crenata comes in a range of shapes and sizes. These hollies don’t do well in areas with hot summers, but they tolerate colder temperatures than the Chinese hollies. 

Ilex opaca (American Holly)
These North American natives grow into up to 60 feet tall, and a mature specimen is a landscape treasure. Although these types of hollies are common in woodland settings, they aren’t often used in residential landscapes because they grow very slowly. ‘Old Heavy Berry’ is a vigorous cultivar that bears lots of fruit. 

Ilex glabra (Inkberry Holly) 
Similar to Japanese hollies, inkberries are distinguished by their black berries. Species types tend to have bare lower branches because they drop their lower leaves, but cultivars such as ‘Nigra’ have good lower leaf retention. 


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HOW TO GROW AUBERGINES

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I love aubergines, or eggplants as they are known, as they are great in all sorts of dishes. Given some warmth during germination and a hot summer you can successfully grow aubergines in the UK in mild areas.  However as they like plenty of sunshine and warm conditions they are best grown undercover in a greenhouse to ensure a good crop.

Sow the seed early in the year (February to March) to make the most of the available sunshine.  Fill 9 cm pots with john Inness seed and potting compost and place five seeds on the surface of each pot. Cover with a thin layer of vermiculite. Water gently and place in a heated propagator set to 21 degrees, or warm greenhouse until germination, usually about 2-3 weeks later.

When the first true leaves have fully developed prick out the seedlings into individual 7 cm pots.  Feed weekly until the roots have filled the pot and then transplant to a larger pot filled with multi purpose compost, repeating the process until they are in a 30 cm pot. 

Stake the plants as necessary to ensure adequate support is given. Remove the growing tip when the plant is 20-30 cm high to encourage branching. 

If planting your seedlings outside harden off first and then select a sheltered, sunny position such as a warm wall when the risk of frost has passed, spacing them 60 cm apart. You can protect them further with a cloche for the first few weeks until establishment.

Water your plants well and spray the leaves and flowers with warm water twice a day during the summer to help the fruit set and to discourage red spider mite. When the first fruits start to appear feed fortnightly with liquid feed high in potassium.  

How to grow aubergines

HOW TO GROW HOLLY FROM SEED

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At this time of year (Winter) certain plants really shine, and Holly is one of them. With fantastic spiky evergreen foliage and stunning berries, Holly is a sure fire winter winner. It looks so festive and fabulous no wonder it is still so popular. 

If you want to save some money, and have a little patience, you could grow holly from seed. You can collect berries from late autumn and right through the winter.  Pick the berries by hand, removing all twigs and separating berries from the bunch. You can store your berries in a cool, dry place for several weeks. 

Holly seeds have a tough outer seed coat that requires warm summer temperatures to break the dormancy, and so germinate in the second year after planting. However you can shorten this germination period by pre-treating the seed in a process called stratification. 

Place your seeds in a clear plastic bag covered sandwiched between two layers of damp moss peat. Tie the top and store the bag in your fridge for 20 weeks, after which they will be ready for planting. Sow your holly seeds directly outside in a nursery bed until they are ready to be transplanted a year later. 

Holly likes deep, loamy soil in full to part shade, but avoid areas that are prone to waterlogging during the winter. Plant the seeds 2 cm deep and 30 cm apart, then cover with soil. Clearly mark the area of planting to identify the seedlings when they emerge. 

Water lightly frequently to keep the soil damp but do not waterlog the plants. Transplant your holly seedlings when they are 30 cm tall. Dig out a generous root ball as holly has a long tap root so dig down 30 - 45 cm to avoid damaging this when transplanting.

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SELECTING YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE

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Selecting a Christmas tree to bring home and decorate is a key part of Christmas. Take the stress out of the task by following this guide to selecting and keeping your tree.

Whether you choose a traditional Norway spruce or decide to go for a non-drop variety, you need to ensure that you choose a well-balanced, quality trees that will last throughout Christmas and into the New Year.

The longest lasting trees are the ones you get cut down when you buy them.  You know that they have not been hanging around for weeks on end waiting to get sold.  Buying fresh ensures that the needles are held fast and the tree is in a good condition.  As soon as the tree is cut, it will slowly start to shrink and die so newer is best.

Ensure you see your tree unwrapped before you buy it.  Check the branches are not damaged, are even in spacing and that the branches are sufficiently covered in needles. The supplier should offer a wrapping service after you have selected it.  If not, you risk getting a damaged or poorly balanced tree.

Don't get carried away with the tree experience.  Take a tape measure with you to ensure you stick to the correct height and width of tree you require.  Unless you have ample ceiling height 8 feet will be the maximum height you select.  Go any higher and you will end up cutting out large chunks of the tree.  Ensure the width fits too or you will end up with a enormous visitor to the house over Christmas.

Allow adequate transportation home for the tree.  many trees get damages trying to wedge into vehicles or tied onto roof racks and speed along roads.  Be gentle to your tree and treat it well and it will last much longer.

Once home place the tree in a good quality Christmas Tree Stand.  Ensure it has a water reservoir as the tree will require water to prevent the needles form dropping at a alarming rate. Don't place the tree near extremes of temperature such as a radiator, window or draughty area.  You can buy spray cans of anti-needle dropping products, which work by locking in water to the tree by blocking the tiny holes in the needles (stomata).  There can be useful but are highly flammable so ensure no naked lights get near the tree.

You may choose a traditional tree, or wish to select a variety with better needle retention or in a different colour.  There are many varieties of fir, spruce, cyprus, pines and cedar trees that are sold as Christmas trees including:  

Norway Spruce, Picea abies 

This is the traditional British Christmas tree. Trees are triangular shaped, with dark green needles and dropping branchlets. Needles are rectangular in section and at the base of each needle is a twig-like projection (sterigmata) which remains after the needle is lost. Picea abies has a tendency to drop its needles, particularly towards the end of the Christmas period. Purchase your tree in the week just before Christmas to ensure your needles look good over the festive period.

Blue spruce, Picea pungens

The blue spruce offers an attractive blue colour and holds it needles well.This tree has stiff, waxy grey-green needles, a symmetrical form and a dense habit.  Needles are four sided with a very sharp point on the end, but are retained well on your cut tree. 

Nordmann fir, Abies nordmanniana

This is the best selling non drop tree variety.  Nordmann firs have long, full, lush, dark green foliage, which is soft to the touch and have excellent needle retention. It has attractive foliage, and its needles are flattened, glossy and dark green in colour.  The tip of the leaf is usually blunt so the needles that are not sharp and do not drop readily when the tree dries out. 

Douglas fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii

The needles are soft, dark green-blue green in colour and radiate in all directions from the branch. This variety holds it needles well and when crushed, these needles have a sweet fragrance.

Noble fir, Abies procera

The noble fir has a shape similar to a Douglas fir but is a deeper, richer green. It has stiff branches which make it a good tree for heavy ornaments, as well as providing excellent greenery for wreaths and garland. The Noble fir keeps as a cut Christmas tree for a long time.

Scots Pine, Pinus sylvestris

A really fragrant native conifer with an attractive blue-green foliage and soft needles.

Lodgepole pine, Pinus contorta

A bushy tree, similar to the Scots Pine, with long green needles and a wonderful natural pine scent. Probably the best tree for needle retention and is perfect for those who like to decorate their tree a little earlier .

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Christmas cake
Christmas mince pies
Christmas puddings
Gingerbread Christmas Decorations
Growing Christmas trees
How to grow mistletoe from seed
How to grow Holly from seed
How to make Christmas cake
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How to keep your Christmas tree
Christmas trees How to roast turkey
Poinsettia care
Recipe for Christmas pudding
Santa
Spiced brussels sprouts
What is a tree?
What is Boxing day?
What is Christmas?
What is mistletoe?
Why do we kiss under the mistletoe?
What is frankincense?
What is Myrhh?