Monday 22 September 2014

THE FALSE WIDOW SPIDER


The false widow spider, Steatoda nobilis, is one of six noble spiders present in the UK. However the false widow is the only non-native member of the group, first entering the UK in the 1890s and is believed to have been imported from either the Canary Islands or Madeira.  It remained in one or two isolated spots until relatively recently but since the early 1990s it has been spreading across the south coast from the Bristol channel to the Wash.  The significant increase in their population during the last 25 years is believed to be due to the result of our warmer winters.

The false widow spider takes it name from its look-a-like cousin the deadly Black Widow spider, but that is where the similarities stop.  Steatoda nobilis have a bulbous abdomen which is usually dark brown with lighter brown marbling colours.  They have a distinctive cream 'skull' on their abdomen,  spindly red-orange legs and can grow up to 32 mm long. Their web is usually an irregular tangle of sticky fibres in appearance.

Like most native spiders in this group the false widow spider produces its egg sacs in the summer months. Females normally reproduce up to three sacs each year over their 4-5 year adult life span.  The spiderlings hatch within a month or so and then disperse using silk strand parachutes to be carried on air currents to a new habitat.  Spiderlings normally disperse either in late autumn or early spring, depending upon when their eggs were laid and the ambient conditions.

Although they are the most venomous spider in the UK, false widow spiders are not actually all that venomous. The physiological effects of a bite are similar to those of true widows but at a much lower intensity.  The bite from Steatoda Nobilis is similar to that of a bee sting and most people will only suffer localised pain and swelling.  However the bite may trigger in some an extreme allergic reaction called anaphylactic shock, which could prove fatal.

If you are bitten by a spider or stung/bitten by an insect then you must ensure that the wound does not get infected, by cleaning it with an antiseptic wash or soap and water as soon as possible. Placing a flannel or cloth soaked in cold water over the wound will help reduce any swelling. Avoid scratching the affected area to reduce the risk of infection. If there is a lot of swelling/blistering or there is pus in the wound this may indicate the wound has become infected. In that event you are advised to consult your local doctor.

There have been no fatalities from any spider bite in the UK, including the Noble False Widow Spider.  More severe symptoms are likely a result of an allergic reaction or subsequent infection of the wound and not all have been confirmed as bites from a noble false widow. If you experience any of the following symptoms as a result of a bite/sting then you are advised to call 999 and ask for an ambulance; wheezing or difficulty breathing; nausea, vomiting or diarrhoea; a fast heart rate; dizziness or feeling faint; difficulty swallowing; confusion, anxiety or agitation.

Management

Most spiders are docile and even if they are capable of biting humans they generally avoid contact and move away at the first disturbance.  Bites normally only occur if a spider is extremely provoked, trapped under clothing or accidently squashed.  Spiders are generally not likely to be harmful unless accidently or deliberately molested.

Spiders of all types, native or exotic, can generally be maintained at manageable levels or even eliminated by simple housekeeping measures such as removal of webs and their contents at regular intervals and ensuring that all stored materials and equipment are cleaned and kept pest free on a regular basis. Regularly vacuuming or sweeping windows, corners of rooms, storage areas and other seldom used area helps remove spiders and their webs.  Vacuuming spiders can be an effective control technique because their soft bodies usually don’t survive this process.

One of the easiest ways to minimise encounters with false widow spiders is to reduce clutters around buildings, which derives them of places to make retreats.  However, it is impractical to eliminate them completely by removing all clutter.  In terms of avoidance of bites when cleaning areas simple precautions such as using gloves and coveralls, combined with vigilance to ensure spiders do not climb up garments, are normally sufficient.    Spiders can enter buildings through cracks and other openings. 

To prevent spiders from coming indoors seal cracks in the foundation and other parts of the building and gaps around windows and doors. Eliminate places for spiders to hide and build their webs by keeping the area next to the foundation free of rubbish, leaf litter and accumulations of other materials.  Removing ivy and other heavy vegetation growing around foundations and trimming plant growth away from buildings will discourage spiders, in general, from taking up residence near the structure and then moving inside. 

One aspect that makes controlling widow spiders difficult is that they. Like many spiders, exhibit and behaviour called ballooning.  When the spiderlings are very small on warm days when there is an updraft they climb to the top of a fence post of piece of vegetation, raise their abdomens into the air and release a small filament of silk.  When the updraft currents overtake the forces of gravity, the spiderling is carried into the air to another location.  This may only be a few feet away or it could be miles.  Ballooning spiderlings have been captured at 10,000 feet from the ground and 200 miles off shore.

Control 

Do not panic if you see a false widow spider.  If you are concerned by there presence you can remove them, but as a precaution not to handle the spider with your bare hands as the spider may bite in self-defence. If you, like me, are not brave enough to tackle a spider face to face then you can control them with a rolled up newspaper, slipper, vacuum cleaner or insecticidal aerosol spray. Large infestations can be treated by pest control companies.

Tuesday 16 September 2014

AUTUMN SUPERFOODS


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Autumn is that time of year when we suffer from colds and viruses so its important to eat healthy. Super foods that contain antioxidants and essential vitamins and minerals in a high abundance and have a significant benefit to your health.  There are some super foods in season that will be just perfect for you at this time of year.

Apples
full of vitamin C, potassium and quercetin apples protect against heart disease and provide anti inflammatory benefits.

Beetroot
This vegetable is full of iron, folic acid, potassium and antioxidants making beetroot good for the heart and kidneys.  Nitrates present in the vegetables are high in nitrates which reduce blood pressure.

Blueberries
These are full of antioxidants protecting against arthritis, Alzheimer's, heart disease and some cancers. The flavonoids and polyphenols in blueberries improve our brain power and keep our skin looking good. 

Butternut squash
High in vitamins A and C, omega 3 and beta carotene butternut squash are great for our immune system, skin and eyes. 

Mackerel
Oily fish is rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids and phosphorous, which aids kidney function, cell production and helps keep bone and teeth health.  It is recommended that you should eat at least one portion of oily fish each week.

Mushrooms
Mushrooms are the only vegetable to contain vitamin D which is needed to absorb calcium and make strong bones as well as vitamin B essential for healthy nervous system.  They contain selenium which is an anti-cancer oxidant. 

Mussels
Mussels contain iron and are rich in protein, selenium, zinc.  This means they are great to help build up the immune systems. and good for our hearts and brains.  They are also high in omega-3 fatty acids they also reduce inflammatory condition such as arthritis.

Kale
Green leafy vegetables are high in iron, calcium and magnesium which help to ward off germs.   They are also a good source of fibre which is important as a healthy digestive tract is important as two thirds of our immune system is located in the gut.  

Red cabbage
This vegetable provides plenty of vitamins A, C and K and calcium.  Purple vegetables are so coloured because they have natural pigments called anthocyanins, which protects the immune system and guard against some cancer and dementia. 

Runner beans
Runner beans are high in antioxidant vitamins A and C and vitamin K. and are high in fibre, foliate, magnesium and potassium.  Beans are good for the heart as well as boosting the cardiovascular system.

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Friday 12 September 2014

THE HOUSE SPIDER



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Its that time of year again. Autumn.  Spider breeding season. he time that spiders start to terrorise me in my own home.

It is usually the males that we see wandering around indoors as they come out of their hiding place in search of a mate.  The females tend to stay in one place and wait for them to visit.  Spiders come into the house through open windows and doors.  However these are outdoor spiders that have just found there way in and not true indoor spiders.

There are many species of spiders but only five species of indoor spider in the UK.  These spiders are quite happy to permanently live in the house and provide us with an effective cleaning service by eating all the unwanted bugs in the house.

But perhaps I would take the risk of living with the odd moth or fly when you compare them to living with a giant house spider (Eratigena atrica formally Tegenaria savea and T.gigantea).  These spiders are the largest in Britain and can grow up to a massive 5 inches long. Other species of house spider include the common house spider Tengenaria  domestica and the cardinal spider Tengenaria parietina.  


The house spider is a generic name for spiders that live indoors and consist of five closely related spiders that belong to the genus Tegenaria.  You can often spot these large brown spiders in the bath or running across the floor. They can run fast too, but only for very short periods of time and often pause mid run due to exhaustion.

Other spiders that may be in your house include the daddy long legs spider Pholcus phalangioides and you often encounter outdoor spiders in your house such as the European garden spider Araneus diademata and orb-weaver Zygiella x-notata. 


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Saturday 6 September 2014

HOW TO GROW BUTTERNUT SQUASH

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Butternut squash (Cucurbitaceae moschata) is perhaps the most identifiable of the squashes due to its distinctive pale yellow and pear-shaped fruit. The orange flesh inside is distinctly sweet and tastes delicious roasted.  They are high in vitamin A as well as providing vitamin C, manganese and fibre.


Butternut squash is a winter squash and belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family, along with pumpkins, gourds, cucumber and melon. Squashes bear palmately lobed, alternate, and simple leaves and have spiralling tendrils. They have yellow flowers and their fruits are specialized berries called pepos, which can grow very large. Winter squash take longer to mature than summer squashes, one hundred days versus fifty days.  They have durable rinds and are consumed when the fruits and seeds are fully mature. A single plant can produce three or four butternut squashes each season.

Growing squash from seed


Once the soil has sufficiently warmed up squash can be planted directly outside in your beds, usually between April and June.  However you may wish to give your butternut squash a head start by starting them off indoors several weeks before the last frost is due.  Plant your seeds in 11 cm pots, which will accommodate 2-3 seeds. Place the seeds 2 cm under the soil, lightly water and keep on a warm, sunny windowsill until germination.  Harden off before planting out in the bed two weeks after the last frost has passed.

Butternut squash can grow very large so you will only require three or four plants for a good harvest.  Ensure that you have enough room in your bed to accommodate them as your plants will require plenty of space.  Select a sunny position and prepare the seed bed by digging planting holes 90 cm / 3 feet apart two weeks before sowing. Fill with a mixture of compost and soil and incorporate a general fertiliser. Place a single plant in each planting hole, or 3-5 seeds if planting direct into the soil (but thin out as necessary).



You many wish to grow your squash as climbers rather than ground cover.  If so ensure they have a sturdy framework on which to climb and plant at 60 cm intervals. Support the heavy fruit as necessary with slings or nets ties into the trellis.

Maintenance

Squashes are thirsty plants so water well to ensure that the soil is kept constantly moist. However the neck of the plant can rot if water sits around the top of the plant. You can sink a 15 cm / 6 " pot alongside the plant and water into this to ensure that water reaches the roots.

Butternut squashes will have male only flowers bloom prior to the female ones.  It is the female flowers that will set fruit. Squashes are hungry too so feed every 2 weeks with a liquid fertiliser once the fruits have started to swell. Watch out for pest and disease such as powdery mildew and grey mould.

When the season is coming to a close pinch off any new flowers or small squashes to allow the main crop to swell. Allow the fruit to mature on the plant and remove the fruit just prior to the first frost. When the fruits are mature the skins become tough, so check with your fingernail to ensure that you cant cut the skin.

Butternut squash have a long storage life if you leave in the sun to dry for a few days and can be stored for several months.

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Wednesday 3 September 2014

HOW TO GROW KIWI FRUITS



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The kiwi fruit is named after the brown, fuzzy flightless kiwi bird of New Zealand.  It is high in vitamin C and a good source of potassium.

The kiwi fruit (Actinidia) is a very attractive climber that is easy to grow in a sheltered, sunny position in your garden.  Once considered an exotic fruit you can successfully grow kiwis in the UK. Plant on a south or south west facing wall and this plant can be frost to fully hardy.  However young shoots are very vulnerable to frost so they may require some protection in the spring if you don’t live in a mild area.

Plant late autumn to early spring in fertile, well drained soil and incorporate organic matter. Kiwis are vigorous plants so ensure you have plenty of space and need to be planted out at four meter spacing's. Only one plant is necessary if a self-fertile cultivar is selected, otherwise plant male and female cultivars to ensure good pollination.


Mulch the base of the plant with organic matter in late winter and apply a general purpose fertiliser in the spring. Keep moist during the growing season, up to two to three times per week. It will take several years after planting before kiwis fruit. Pick the fruit in late autumn before the first frost and place in a fruit bowl for several weeks with other ripe fruit.  You can keep kiwi fruits in the refrigerator for up to three months.

Kiwis grow well trained as an espaliers or over a pergola.  To train into espaliers' cut back to 30 cm high after planting.  Tie the new leading shoot to a cane.  Train in a pair of shoots along each horizontal wire and pinch out tips when they fill space.  Lateral shoots grown at 50 cm intervals with produce fruit the following year if the tips are pinched out after they have developed five leaves.


During the winter cut back 25% of the oldest lateral to a bud 5 cm from the stem. These vigorous plants will need summer pruning to keep them in check.  Pinch out any side shoots that have developed.  Once fruit has set pinch back side shots to four or five stems. Cut back any non fruiting laterals from June onwards.

You can take propagate Actinidia by taking softwood cuttings in the spring, grafting and layering.

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Monday 1 September 2014

HOW TO GROW SWEET POTATOES


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Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are the tuberous roots of vining plants. They belong to the same family as Morning Glories (Ipomoea tricolour) and you’ll easily see the similarity in their leaves to the sweet potato vines.


Sweet Potatoes have grown in popularity in recently, and are widely grown in warmer climates. You can plant hardier varieties outdoor in the UK if planted in a sheltered position. Varieties such as Georgia Jet and T65 are reliable in the UK but you may opt for smaller, bushier varieties such as Bush Porto Rico for your garden as you will need a lot of space.

Sweet potatoes are best grown from unrooted cuttings, called slips, which can be bought from April onwards. You can make your own slips by filling a bucket halfway with damp sand, and then half burying several sweet potatoes sprouty side up.  Alternatively sewer with a wooden stick half way through the potato and place over a jar of water, the bottom hal;f submerged. Keep in a warm place and within six weeks you will have many slips to select.  It is best to grow from seed tubers, rather than edible supermarket tubers.


Pot up your slips into small pots of multi purpose compost and water gently.  Cover with a clear plastic bag or place in propagator. Place your seed potato plant on a sunny windowsill or frost free greenhouse in the spring.  The plants should root within two weeks and be ready to plant out six weeks later.

Sweet potatoes like free draining, slightly acidic soil and a sunny, sheltered position. Dig over the soil in late March/April, add in plenty of organic matter and cover with black polythene to suppress weeds and warm the soil. Plant in raised rows 15 cm above the ground, spaced 30-45 cm apart, leaving 1 metre between rows.

Plant out your potatoes in late May/early June when the ground starts to warm up and the risk of frosts has passed.  Harden off your potatoes by placing them in slits through the polyethylene.  Sweet potatoes like the warmth so cover the potatoes with a cloche or fleece.

Keep your sweet potatoes weed free until the vines form a natural mulch.. Do not feed as this will just produce foliage. Water as necessary to ensure good growth but to avoid the tubers from splitting do not water 3-4 weeks prior to harvest.


You can also grow sweet potatoes inside glasshouses in containers or grow bags.  They crop best at temperatures between 21-26 C. Plant up slips into small pots of multi purpose compost and transplant from this pot once they have produced plenty of roots.  Tie in foliage to cane or similar. Water well and feed fortnightly with a high potassium liquid feed.

Sweet potatoes will be ready to harvest in 4-5 months.  Lift the tubers when the  leaves turn yellow and die back.  The tubers grow close to the top of the soil so be careful when harvesting as they can bruise easily.  They are hard to store so it is best to eat them quickly..

Plants can be overwintered in greenhouse or on windowsill.

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